Friday, February 15, 2008

Day 21

Friday, Feb 15

We left early today to get on the road to Kaikoura. We're supposed to swim with dolphins tomorrow but the weather is cold and rainy with a strong southwesterly wind., which make it look like the sea will be too rough. Steve threw out the idea of snorkeling with seals and spearfishing, or sea kayaking or ocean fishing instead. When we actually got to Kaikoura (which means "eat crayfish" in Maori) the weather was such that all of that got tossed out except sea kayaking. Susan, Joe, Steve, Vicky, and I decided to do that. We had a few hours before we had to meet up, so I headed down to the main street. There are some cute art galleries and a library and some bars and shops, not a lot. I really liked some of the art prints and decided to go back the next day to get some. The walk back up the hill to the hostel was pretty strenuous as it was amazingly steep.

We headed back down to the i-Site for 4:30 and took off for the launch site. We're using tandem kayaks, and the stronger paddler gets to go in the back, and that person is in charge of steering with the little rudder as well. I got to go in front of Matt, on of the guides. We had to carry the kayaks down to the beach and there had been large swells the past few days and there was seaweed washed up on the shore. This is massive , beginning to decompose seaweed. We had to walk over it in bare feet or socks and that was pretty gross. Once over, however, we set off towards some seals basking on rocks. We were in a protected bay, so even though it was pretty windy and the ocean was rough it was pretty smooth for us. I figured out how to cheat at paddling by putting my hands closer together on the paddle. It made my arms ache less while paddling, but also made the strokes less powerful. We had a good time and we saw a seal playing in the water just in front of the kayak and also a cormorant. I had my waterproof camera, so I got some pictures, including many with the added bonus of my thumb.

Me and Matt, the guide

Joe, Susan, and a seal

After kayaking we headed back to the hostel to shower and change and then relaxed as Ronnie, Susan, and Steve-o made a dinner of crayfish and jambalaya and soup. We were all welcome to taste it. Turns out I don't despise crayfish as much as other crustaceans, even though I think they look repellent. I don't mind the texture that much and they only taste vaguely of the ocean. Ronnie made a magnificent cream sauce dish that was delicious. The jambalaya was way too fishy for me.

Crayfish

Steve's crawfish dish

Crayfish dinner in the hostel, Kaikura

And here begins the Steve drama. Earlier that day he had been talking about going spearfishing to get some butterfish for dinner and maybe find some crayfish in the ocean. He stopped in at a friend's fishing charter business and came out with a bag of crayfish which he said we could all try. After dinner Susan said that he was telling her that he wanted to be reimbursed for the crayfish (he actually got them for free , but they were payment for a $40 debt the fisherman had owed him). He also complained about spending lots of money on the sashimi at the salmon farm and not getting anything back. Now, he'd only complained to Susan and a bit to Ronnie that night. A bunch of us got together afterwards and discussed the fact that he had not once said that he expected or wanted to be paid. We had thought, and he gave the impression, that it was part of the tour. I think that if someone expects to be paid back, they should mention up front - if for nothing else than that way people can decide whether they want to take part in it or not. So hearing that he was complaining to just one or two of us, and not talking to all of us, made the evening end on a bit of a downer.

He also told us that the Dolphin Encounter people would be calling him at 8 am the next morning to let him know whether the swim was on for the next day. (remember this, it will be important tomorrow) Then the young'uns and Steve went out partying and Susan went to bed and Kieran and Sarah M. and I curled up and watched the John Cusack movie "Identity", which freaked Sarah out so much that she didn't want to go to the bathroom alone.

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